Ko Phi Phi in Krabi Province

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Ko Phi Phi in Krabi Province

Maya Bay

Ko Phi Phi in Krabi Province. Ko Phi Phi (หมู่เกาะพีพี) is a small archipelago of six islands in Krabi ProvinceSouthern Thailand. It is touted to be one of the most beautiful yet easily accessible island groups in the world. While the latter is certainly true, the former is quickly becoming less so. The entire region is technically part of a marine National Park, but the hordes of visitors have taken a toll on the beaches and reefs over the years. All guests are required to be fully barefoot on all of the Phi Phi Islands due to the holy nature of them (and that includes hiking). Any guest who breaks this law is subject to fine or arrest. Guests should not enter the Phi Phi Islands wearing shoes.

Understand

Aerial photo of Ko Phi Phi Don

The named islands are:

Most of the development of Phi Phi Don is situated in or around Ton Sai village, which is on the low, sandy isthmus that joins the two hilly spurs that comprise the rest of the island. There are also other, quieter resorts on Long Beach, Laem Thong, and at other less accessible areas of the island.

Ko Phi Phi was devastated by the Indian Ocean tsunami of December 2004, when nearly all of the island’s infrastructure was wiped out. Redevelopment has, however, been swift, and services are back with building regulations in place to limit the height of new buildings to preserve the island’s stunning views.

Climate

Weather in the region is tropical – there are only two seasons: the hot season from late January to April, and the rainy season from May to December. Temperatures during the year average 25ºC to 32ºC (77ºF to 89.6ºF) and the yearly rainfall averages 2569 mm. Unlike in say, Europe, the rain in this region comes down heavily over short periods.

History

From archaeological discoveries, it is believed that the area was one of the oldest communities in Thailand dating back to the prehistoric period. It is believed that this province may have taken its name after the meaning of Krabi, which means sword. This may have stemmed from a legend that an ancient sword was unearthed prior to the city’s founding.

The name Phi Phi (pronounced ‘pee pee’) originates from Malay, the original name for the islands was “Pulao Pi ah Pi”. The name refers to the mangrove wood found there.

Geography

Ko Phi Phi is considered to be one of the most naturally beautiful islands in the world (in fact, there are six islands in Phi Phi). They lie 50 km southeast of Phuket and are part of Had Nopparattara-Ko Phi Phi National Park which is home to an abundance of corals and amazing marine life. There are limestone mountains with cliffs, caves and long white sandy beaches. The national park covers a total area of 242,437 rai.

Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh are the largest and most well-known islands.

There are two villages on Ko Phi Phi under the administration of the Ao Nang Sub-district, Muang District, Krabi Province.

Ko Phi Phi comprises 6 islands, 2 of them main – Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le. The islands are surrounded by the Andaman Sea.

Culture

Krabi is a melting pot of Buddhists, Thai-Chinese, Muslims and even sea gypsies. The majority of the population in the rural areas is Muslim. Krabi however, does not suffer from any religious tension and the folk live in peace and harmony. Outside of the provincial town, the rural folk speak with a thick southern dialect which is difficult for even other Thais to understand.

With this kind of mixture, Krabi is always celebrating something be it part of Thai Buddhist, Thai-Chinese, or Thai-Islamic tradition. Visitors can also enjoy the annual boat-launching ceremonies of the sea gypsies and various longtail boat races.

Art

The art of batik is practiced by the locals. There are also a lot of Krabi handicrafts, such as pineapple paper.

Tourism

Tourism on Ko Phi Phi, like the rest of Krabi province, has exploded only very recently. In the early 1990s only the most adventurous travelers visited the island, staying in only the most basic accommodation costing the likes of 50-100 baht a night. Nowadays, however, the place has turned into one of the major destinations for visitors to Thailand. The development however, is still nothing on a par with the likes of Phuket or Ko Samui.

However, presently, budget backpackers can still get a cheap room away from the beach, up the hill a bit.

Ko Phi Phi has plenty of night life, but if that isn’t your cup of tea, then there are lots of really quiet places to chill out and take it easy.

Get in

By boat

Tonsai Pier, situated in the center of Tonsai Bay, north of of Phi Phi Don. It’s the island’s main pier and the busiest.

To/From Phuket: Ferries leave from Phuket daily at 08:30, 11:00, 13:30 and 15:00 via Rassada Pier or Sea Angel Pier. 1.5-2 hrs. 250-800 baht. Possible to get 300-350 baht one-way tickets as part of a deal with a guest house stay. Official price at Rassada pier is 600 for one way or 1000 for return, so buy in advance or be prepared for some negotiating. Note that one-way tickets from Phi Phi to Phuket are 300-350 baht at Tonsai Pier or 200-250 from quest houses at island. You can get from the Phuket Airport to Rassada Pier by meter taxi for around 500 baht. It’s about a 30 km drive and takes 45 minutes depending on traffic and weather.

From Ao Nang: Ferry leave from Ao Nang once daily at 09:30 via Nopparat Thara Pier. 2 hrs.

From Rai Leh: -Ferry leaves from Rai Leh once daily at 09:45 via Railay Bay. 1.45 hrs. There’s no actual pier, you will transfer by longtail boats to ferry. Same ferry from Ao Nang.

From Krabi Town: Ferries leave from Krabi Town daily at 09:00, 10:30, 13:30, 15:00 and 16:00 via Klong Jilad Pier. 1.3-1.45 hrs. 300-500 baht. 400 baht in December 2014 from PP Family, office right by the pier in town, incl. songthaew to the pier outside town. The normal passenger ferry does not leave from the centre of town anymore, but from a new passenger port (Klong Jilard Pier Tel. 0 7562 0052) about 3 km outside Krabi Town. Free taxi transfer to the pier should be included in the price of your ticket. Many times they’ll take you to a travel agent near the Chao Fah Pier and sell you additional accommodations or services. Only ever buy the ticket you need. They add additional ferries during peak season.

From Ko Lanta: Ferries leave from Ko Lanta daily at 08:00 and 13:00 via Saladan Pier. 1 hrs. 200-350 baht as of January 2015.

There is a 20 baht per person fee required on the pier for “keeping Ko Phi Phi clean”. Unfortunately, there is still plenty of rubbish on the beaches. Tickets can be purchased on-line or on the dock, from tourist offices, most local guest houses and hotels. Prices vary depending on how far into town you walk before buying. Also, not all ferries are of equal quality.

Other tour vessels visit the island from several Phuket-based resorts, usually on day trips, the price for a speedboat from Rawai Beach was quoted at 15,000 baht return(or one way) for up to 6 people (Dec 6 2007). There are many speedboats operating directly from the beach but it may be best to book the day before as most seem to be on away on trips during the day. Speedboats can also be chartered from other nearby locations, but at a very high price.

By all-inclusive tour

Small Agencies selling all-inclusive day trips from Phuket are all over Patong town, and most everywhere else on Phuket Island. Circa late January 2011 – booked a lengthier “half day” hour tour via speedboat negotiated to 1,400 baht/person (from the pamphlet printed price of 3,000 baht). The tour included 6 different stops, a free buffet lunch on Phi Phi Don, snorkel usage, and minibus transport to and from the Patong Beach hotel. This set-up seems incredibly common, and one should be able to find similar deals sold anywhere on Phuket that tourists frequent. Don’t buy a trip from the back seat of a a taxi from the Airport…

Things to keep in mind:

By plane

Krabi International Airport (KBV) is about 10 km from the city limits, 15 km from the city centre, 40 km from Ao Nang and 23 km from Had Yao. Thai Airways operates daily direct flights to/from Bangkok, likewise Air Asia from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. Bangkok Airways flies direct to/from Krabi and Ko Samui nearly every day of the week and to/from. Nok Air operates daily flights to Krabi from Bangkok (Don Muang).

For more information, contact:

The international departure tax surcharge is 700 baht but is included in most tickets now; domestic departure tax is included in the price of the flight.

National Car Rental and Budget Car Rental have a branch at the airport; motorcycle taxi rides are available outside the terminal.

Krabi Limousine (tel. +66-75692073) has a desk inside the terminal and provides “limousine taxi” (using large air-conditioned sedans) transport to Krabi for 500 baht; Phuket for 2500 baht. Krabi.com offers taxi and minibus (mini-vans) for less however travellers have to make deposit payment of 200 baht on-line via credit card.

An air-conditioned Airport Bus service started in 2007, fares are 90 baht to Krabi. The bus service meets all incoming flights and serves most outgoing flights (note: it is not possible to catch the first 1-2-go plane in the morning with the new airport bus service) A songthaew to Krabi town is 40 baht from the road outside. Going to the airport they will drop you right at the departure terminal.

By bus

Buses from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (tel. +66 2 4351199) to Krabi take about 12 hours and depart as follows:

Shuttle buses run between Krabi airport and Phuket airport several times a day. There are also regular buses that make the 2 hour run. There are buses to Krabi from every provincial town in the south.

By car

From Bangkok:

  1. Proceed along Hwy 4, passing Phetchaburi–Prachuap Khiri Khan–Chumphon–Ranong–Phang Nga, to Krabi. The total distance is 946 km.
  1. Travel along Hwy 4 onto Hwy 41 at Chumphon via Amphoe Lang Suan and Amphoe Chaiya, Surat Thani. Proceed towards Amphoe Wiang Sa, change to Hwy 4035 for Amphoe Ao Luek, and switch back to Hwy 4 again to Krabi. This route is 814 km.

From Phuket:

Proceed along Hwy 402 and Hwy 4. The total distance is 176 km.

By train

The nearest train station to Krabi is in Trang province which is just south of Krabi.

Get around

Phi Phi officially has no motorised transport, though there are a few motorcycles with truck side-cars, usually used for goods and construction material transport. Transport on land is by foot or bicycle, but in the populated areas of Ton Sai, nowhere is more than about ten minutes’ walk from anywhere else. Long-tail taxi-boats ply between all beaches; on Phi Phi Don, you can also walk to any beach. From Ton Sai to Long Beach, expect to pay 100 baht/person in the afternoon, at least 150 baht at night. To have a complete boat to yourself, expect to pay at least 200 baht.

Wheelbarrows are used to transport goods, including your luggage if you like. Expect free “transport” from the pier to your room, but not necessarily in the opposite direction.

The most common ways to get around on Ko Phi Phi are by foot and by long-tail boat. As with most everything in an area like this, the price for long-tail boats is a negotiation. Hint: Take some foam earplugs for the long-tail boat rides… it’s a fun ride but the engines are loud and after 45 minutes it can get to you. The negotiation for longtail boats is usually done according to where you want to go and how many hours you want the trip to last. As an example, 1200 baht for a 6-hour outing to Ko Phi Phi Le and Tonsai Bay from the Holiday Inn Resort.

It’s also possible to hike through the island – but if you do so. make sure you take the trail that goes through 3 viewpoints (it’s easy to find) – entrance to the first 2 viewpoints is 30 baht and onwards travel to the third viewpoint will cost you another 50 baht, but it’s well worth it (views are very nice) and the trail is good – otherwise smaller trails are very overgrown and hard to climb. And have enough water with you – there’s little wind in a forest, and there’s a lot of heat.

See

Phi Phi Don

Ton Sai Bay

This island is the largest of the 6 Phi Phi islands and consists of two main sections. It is on Ton Sai where the original inhabitants settled and is now the home of the main accommodation area. Phi Phi Don is quite stunning and has earned the title of one of the most fantastic islands in the world. Nowadays though, with development, the beaches have paid the price and so they’re not quite as spectacular as they were in the days of yesteryear. The landscape however, can never be ruined.

Phi Phi Leh

The second largest of the Phi Phi Islands is extremely beautiful, and pristine, but is uninhabited because it is a national park.

Other islands

Do

Diving

Even though the island was struck badly by the tsunami in 2004, the dive sites were almost unaffected and divers are coming back in flocks.

Other Activities

For a great adventure…visit DragonHeart. Daily sunset and snorkel tours. Tour Phi Phi Leh and cruise into the sunset. Climbing, slacklining, weddings and more! Find them at The Deaf Gecko on Nice Beach. See [14] or email [15].

Buy

Supplies are brought in by boat, so most things are more expensive than on the mainland. However, there are a few shops that manufacture their goods on the island. Prices for commodities can vary widely between shops.

D’s Books has a location on Ko Phi Phi and many others throughout southern Thailand. It is a well-respected book store.

Most of the items sold here are either made by local fishermen or they are brought to the island from Phuket. Rising commercialization and inflow of tourists throughout the year seems to be a big bonus for these locals. Prices told may exactly not be worth the item, but if you are a good talker you can bargain for a good price.

Learn

Rock Climbing Krabi region with its specific landscape is ideal for learning rock climbing, there are lots of different courses for beginners – advanced. The courses available range from just half a day to three whole days in length. All instructors are properly qualified and well-experienced. There are at least ten rock climbing schools in Rai Leh and Ton Sai, and several more on Ko Phi Phi (As of June 2016, all climbing shops/schools on Ko Phi Phi are closed or out of business. Please update this last note if you can verify that any new shops open).

Diving With its crystal clear water, colourful coral and huge diversity of marine life, Phi Phi is a must-go for all those interested in diving. There are courses for anyone, regardless to whether they are near-on experts or complete beginners. Beginner courses are on offer from a range of dive centres, with more advance PADI Open Water courses taking up to three to four days to complete. Koh Phi Phi has excellent visibility with average underwater visibility ranging from 10m to 15m. Local weather, currents and tides can impact visibility.

Kiteboarding Phi Phi island offers excellent conditions for learning kiteboarding. There are beaches on all sides of the island so any wind direction is suitable. There is only one school on the island and they provide IKO beginner courses as well as advanced lessons. Tours are also provided to nearby islands.

Thai Cooking There are a number of places around the island offering Thai Cooking Classes.

Eat

In general, Southern Thai food is renowned for its spiciness. Much of the cuisine has its origins in Malay, Indonesian and Indian food. Favourite dishes from the south include Indian-style Muslim curry (massaman), rice noodles in fish curry sauce (Khanom Jeen) and chicken with yellow rice.

Food on Ko Phi Phi is extremely varied, given the diminutive size of the island, but is not as spectacular as it generally is in Thailand, because most ingredients have to be brought in by boat from the mainland. Reasonably priced and tasty seafood is obviously what most tourists long for when visiting a coastal province like Krabi. In this connection, the wing shell (หอยชักตีน) is Krabi’s famous dish and is eaten with a spicy dip. In addition, stirred fried Spotted Babylon (หอยหวาน), which is found in mangrove forests, with chillies and basil, is also famous. This dish is common in Krabi’s restaurants.

Khun Nod’s cat

Drink

Ton Sai Bay has a variety of night life; something for everyone’s taste. Jazz, blues, and classics can be found playing at the leading hotels. Or, if it’s romance you are after, you and your loved one can relax in one of the beach bars and sip a cocktail under the stars.

If everything is cool, the police usually allow bars to open until about 01:00 in town and 04:00 on the beach.

Sleep

Accommodation is relatively expensive. Doubles range from 400 baht (fan only, with AC it starts at 600 baht) up into the thousands the closer you get to the beach front. If you are on a budget expect to work hard to find a decent price for a private room. Dorm rooms can be found for around 250-300 baht (AC included, shared shower and washroom). If you get really desperate, a couple of places rent out tents for about 200–300 baht. One thing to note, prices are double during the high season which runs from Oct-Nov until May. Other times of year you can find relatively cheap accommodation in the 200-300 baht range.

To have the best choice of accommodation, arrive in Phi Phi just before the Full Moon Party, when most people will be on Ko Pha Ngan. Since a lot of people move from Pha Ngan to Phi Phi after the party, accommodation may be very hard to find on Phi Phi around this time. It is not uncommon to see people arrive on the morning ferry only to leave on the afternoon one because they have been unsuccessful in finding accommodation.

Backpackers need only to look further east on the main street for relatively cheap accommodation. Certain guest houses have dorms, and some have reputations for being good sources of camaraderie and parties. Compare all the dorms. All are different.

Stay healthy

Ko Phi Phi has a couple of pharmacies and a hospital. For any bad illnesses, go back to Krabi or even better, Phuket.

Travelling responsibly

At the beaches and some bars some people may offer you to take your photograph with animals, even baby animals, in exchange for money. Please remember that the most likely way (and many times the only way) these babies were acquired were by poachers killing the mothers, or the entire family. Endorsing this practice only leads to more demand, and more killing. Moreover, some of the species used are endangered and protected under Thai law, which makes the possession and abuse of many of these animals illegal.

The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project is a sanctuary for former photo prop and pet gibbons, based in Phuket Island, they often receive Gibbons and report of more gibbons coming from Phi Phi, they have been working hard for the last decade to rehabilitate and reintroduce them into the wild, in the National Park by Bang Pae Waterfall, should you be interested in learning loads of information about these issues, you may visit their Education Centre inside the park.

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